Hidden South Kashmir: Daksum, Aharbal, Kokernag and Verinag
A local's guide to south Kashmir: Mughal spring gardens, Martand Sun Temple, Aharbal Waterfall, Daksum, Sinthan Top and an 8-night route with Yusmarg.
Beyond the high Razdan Pass, far from the houseboats and Gondola queues, lies one of the most remote and beautiful valleys in Kashmir. Gurez is a narrow, steep-sided valley along the Kishanganga River, dotted with villages of log houses and watched over by Habba Khatoon, a pyramid-shaped peak named after a sixteenth-century poet-queen. Its people, the Dard Shina community, have their own language and traditions, and life here follows the rhythm of the short summer.
Gurez opened to tourism relatively recently and remains wonderfully unspoiled. This guide covers how to get there, the best time to visit, permits, what to see and do, where to stay, local culture and practical tips.
Gurez at a glance
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | Bandipora district, north Kashmir, near the Line of Control |
| Altitude | About 2,400 m in the main valley (Dawar) |
| Distance from Srinagar | About 125 km, roughly 5 to 6 hours |
| Highest point on the road | Razdan Pass, about 3,300 m |
| Best time | June to September |
| Ideal stay | 2 to 3 nights |
Getting to Gurez
The road leaves Srinagar heading north past Manasbal and the shores of Wular Lake to Bandipora, then climbs through forest to the Razdan Pass. From the top, views open across range after range before the road descends in switchbacks to the Kishanganga valley and the main village of Dawar. The drive is long but spectacular; leave early and travel with an experienced driver.
The road is usually open from around late May or June to October or November, depending on snow at Razdan. In winter, Gurez is cut off by road for months.
Permits and documents
- Indian visitors need valid government photo ID and must register at checkpoints along the route.
- Foreign nationals face restrictions and may need special permission; check current rules well in advance.
- Carry several photocopies of IDs. Your operator can help with registration.
- Photography of security installations is prohibited; follow all instructions from authorities.
What to see and do
Habba Khatoon peak
The striking pyramid-shaped mountain above Dawar is named after Habba Khatoon, the poet-queen of the sixteenth-century Chak dynasty, whose songs of longing are still sung in Kashmir. A spring at its foot is named after her.
Kishanganga River
The clear river runs the length of the valley. Walk along its banks, watch the light on the water at sunset, and, in season, try trout fishing with a permit.
Dawar village
Gurez’s main settlement, with a small bazaar, traditional log houses with sloping roofs and fields of maize and potatoes. Wander through the village and meet the warm, curious locals.
Tulail Valley
Further up the valley, Tulail is even more remote, with villages of wooden houses, high meadows and dramatic mountain scenery. A day trip by road from Dawar is one of the highlights of a visit.
Kanzalwan and Wular Lake
Kanzalwan, on the way into Gurez, is a scenic spot by the river. On the drive from Srinagar, stop at viewpoints over Wular Lake, one of Asia’s largest freshwater lakes.
Razdan Pass
Stop at the pass for sweeping views; in early summer, snow lingers on the slopes.
Local culture
Most people in Gurez are Dard Shins who speak Shina, a language distinct from Kashmiri. Their culture, music and traditional dress differ from the rest of the valley. Log houses with wooden walls insulated with mud keep families warm through long winters when the valley is snowbound. Visitors are still a novelty in some villages, and hospitality is generous. Dress modestly, ask before photographing people, and accept tea when offered.
Where to stay
- Homestays: the best way to experience Gurez, staying with local families in traditional houses.
- Guesthouses and small hotels in Dawar.
- Tourist huts and camps: riverside camps operate in summer.
Facilities are basic. Expect simple rooms, home-cooked food, limited hot water in some places and patchy electricity. Book ahead in July and August.
When to go
- June: the road opens; snow on surrounding peaks, green valley.
- July to August: warmest months, greenest landscapes, most accessible.
- September: clear skies, autumn colours, harvest time; cold nights.
- October to May: road likely closed or uncertain; not recommended for tourists.
A 3-night Gurez plan
- Day 1: Srinagar to Gurez via Wular Lake and Razdan Pass. Evening by the Kishanganga.
- Day 2: Explore Dawar, Habba Khatoon spring and riverside walks.
- Day 3: Day trip to Tulail Valley.
- Day 4: Return to Srinagar.
Our Gurez Valley & Kashmir Highlights and Offbeat Kashmir: Gurez & Doodhpathri packages include Gurez with Srinagar and other destinations.
Practical tips
- Carry enough cash; ATMs are scarce or unreliable.
- Mobile coverage is limited; postpaid connections work in some areas. Let family know you may be offline.
- Bring warm layers even in summer; nights are cold.
- Carry snacks and water for the long drive.
- Respect restrictions near the Line of Control; don’t wander into restricted areas.
- Leave no litter; Gurez’s environment is fragile.
The drive over Razdan Pass
The journey to Gurez is an adventure in itself. Leaving Srinagar early, you’ll pass Manasbal and then follow the shore of Wular Lake, one of Asia’s largest freshwater lakes, to the town of Bandipora. From here the road climbs steeply through dense forest of pine and fir, with hairpin bends and sweeping views back over the valley. At Razdan Pass, the forest gives way to open slopes, often with snow patches into early summer, and a view of range after range stretching north. Then the road drops in long switchbacks into the narrow Kishanganga valley. The first sight of Dawar’s wooden houses, with Habba Khatoon peak rising above, is unforgettable.
Leave Srinagar by 7 am to reach Gurez by early afternoon, allowing for photo stops and checkpoints. Avoid driving after dark.
Food and life in Gurez
Gurez’s short summer shapes everything. Families grow potatoes, maize, peas and barley on small terraced fields, and keep sheep, goats and cows that graze high meadows in summer. Homestay meals are simple and hearty: rice, potatoes, local greens, lentils, and sometimes trout or mutton. In late summer, families start storing food, firewood and fodder for the long winter, when Gurez is cut off by snow for months. Visitors in September see this busy preparation in every village.
Responsible travel in Gurez
- Stay with local families in homestays to support the community directly.
- Buy local products like honey, woollens and shahi zeera (black cumin).
- Carry your rubbish back to Srinagar; waste management is limited.
- Use water carefully, especially in guesthouses.
- Dress modestly and respect local customs; ask before photographing people.
- Follow security instructions; Gurez is close to the Line of Control.
Combining Gurez with other places
Gurez fits well with a Kashmir itinerary in summer. Spend two or three nights in Gurez, then return to Srinagar for Gulmarg and Pahalgam, as in our Gurez Valley & Kashmir Highlights package. Or combine it with Doodhpathri for an offbeat-focused trip, as in our Offbeat Kashmir: Gurez & Doodhpathri package.
Habba Khatoon: the poet behind the peak
The pyramid-shaped mountain above Dawar carries the name of one of Kashmir’s most beloved poets. Habba Khatoon, born Zoon in a village near Pampore in the sixteenth century, became queen when she married Yousuf Shah Chak, the last independent ruler of Kashmir. When the Mughals took control and her husband was exiled, she is said to have wandered the valley singing songs of longing and loss. Her verses, among the earliest lyrical poetry in Kashmiri, are still sung at weddings and gatherings. Local tradition links her to Gurez, and the spring at the foot of the peak is named after her. Standing by the Kishanganga, looking up at the mountain in evening light, it’s easy to feel why her songs still move people.
Best things to do in Gurez, at a glance
| Experience | Time needed | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Razdan Pass viewpoint | 30 minutes on the way in | Clearest views in the morning |
| Dawar village walk | 2 to 3 hours | Visit the market and see log houses |
| Habba Khatoon spring | 1 hour | Lovely at sunset |
| Kishanganga riverside | As long as you like | Bring a flask of tea |
| Tulail Valley drive | Full day | Leave early; carry lunch |
| Homestay evening | Evening | Ask about local songs and stories |
Gurez for different travellers
- Couples: a peaceful, romantic escape with riverside walks and starry nights.
- Families: best with older children who enjoy long drives and simple stays.
- Photographers: dramatic peaks, river light and traditional architecture.
- Walkers: gentle valley walks and longer hikes with local guides.
- Older travellers: possible with a comfortable vehicle and a relaxed pace, but the long drive and simple facilities should be considered.
A word on expectations
Gurez is not a resort. There are no cafés serving lattes, few shops and only basic facilities. Power and mobile signal can be patchy, and the drive is long. But that is exactly why travellers love it. If you go with patience and curiosity, you’ll find a valley that feels untouched, people who are warm and welcoming, and landscapes that rank among the most beautiful in Kashmir.
Frequently asked questions
Is Gurez open to tourists?
Yes, for Indian visitors with ID and registration, usually from June to September. Foreign nationals should check current rules.
How far is Gurez from Srinagar?
About 125 kilometres, roughly 5 to 6 hours by road via Bandipora and Razdan Pass.
Are there hotels in Gurez?
There are guesthouses, homestays, tourist huts and summer camps, mostly simple.
Is Gurez safe to visit?
Tourists visit Gurez regularly in summer. Follow the registration process and local advice, and travel with an experienced operator.
What language is spoken in Gurez?
Shina is the main local language. Urdu and some Hindi are understood.
Can I visit Gurez as a day trip?
No. The drive is five to six hours each way, so plan at least two nights.
Is there electricity in Gurez?
Yes, but supply can be irregular. Carry a power bank and torch.
What should I buy in Gurez?
Local honey, shahi zeera (black cumin), hand-knitted woollens and walnuts, when available.
Discover Gurez with us
We arrange Gurez trips with experienced drivers, homestays with local families and help with registration. Tell us your dates between June and September, and we’ll plan your journey over the Razdan Pass.