Wazwan and Beyond: What to Eat in Kashmir

Food is one of the best reasons to visit Kashmir. Kashmiri cooking is slow and fragrant, built on fennel, dried ginger, Kashmiri chilli and yoghurt rather than heavy spice. Here is what to try.

Wazwan: the royal feast

Wazwan is Kashmir’s ceremonial multi-course meal, cooked by master chefs called wazas and served at weddings and celebrations. A full Wazwan can have more than 30 dishes, shared from a large copper plate called a trami. The highlights:

• Rogan Josh: lamb in a deep red gravy coloured with Kashmiri chilli and cockscomb flower.
• Rista: soft meatballs in a red, spiced gravy.
• Gushtaba: large, velvety meatballs in a yoghurt gravy, traditionally the last dish served.
• Tabak Maaz: lamb ribs simmered in milk and spices, then fried crisp.
• Yakhni: lamb in a delicate yoghurt and fennel gravy.

Vegetarian favourites

• Dum Aloo: whole potatoes slow-cooked in a rich red gravy.
• Nadru Yakhni: lotus stem from the lakes, cooked in yoghurt.
• Haak: collard greens cooked simply with mustard oil and chilli.
• Chaman: cottage cheese in a turmeric or tomato gravy.
• Rajma: small, sweet Kashmiri kidney beans with rice.

Breads and bakeries

Kashmiris start the day at the local bakery, the kandur. Try girda (a round, flat bread), lavasa (thin and crisp), bakarkhani (flaky and layered) and sheermal (lightly sweet), ideally with butter and tea.

What to drink

• Kahwa: green tea brewed with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon and almonds, often served from a samovar.
• Noon Chai: a pink, salted tea made with milk and baking soda. An acquired taste, and a local favourite.

Where to try it

Many Srinagar restaurants serve set Wazwan meals for one or two people, which is the easiest way to try several dishes. Houseboats also cook home-style Kashmiri food on request. Ask your driver for their favourite local place; that is often where the best meals are.