Sonamarg Travel Guide: Thajiwas Glacier and the Meadow of Gold

By the Kashmir Holiday Packages Online team · 13 October 2026 · 9 min read

Sonamarg means “meadow of gold”, and on a clear summer afternoon, when the low sun lights the grassland below snowfields and glaciers, you understand the name instantly. Set along the Sindh River at about 2,800 metres, around 80 kilometres north-east of Srinagar, Sonamarg is the last major stop before Zojila Pass and the road to Ladakh. It is wilder and more dramatic than Gulmarg or Pahalgam, and a favourite with trekkers, nature lovers and anyone who wants to stand close to a glacier.

This guide covers getting there, the main sights, things to do, seasonal access, where to stay, how long to spend and practical tips for visiting Sonamarg.

Sonamarg at a glance

DetailInformation
AltitudeAbout 2,800 m
Distance from SrinagarAbout 80 km, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours
DistrictGanderbal
Best timeMay to October
Ideal stayDay trip or 1 night; longer for treks

The drive from Srinagar

The road to Sonamarg is part of the Srinagar–Leh highway and one of the most beautiful drives in Kashmir. Leaving Srinagar via Ganderbal, it follows the Sindh River through willow groves, rice fields and the town of Kangan, then climbs into a narrowing valley with forested slopes and rushing water. Stop at roadside dhabas for tea and look out for shepherds moving flocks along the road in summer.

The Z-Morh (Sonamarg) tunnel, opened in early 2025, bypasses an avalanche-prone stretch near Gagangir, which has improved access to Sonamarg, especially in winter. Road conditions can still change quickly with weather, so check before you go.

View from Zojila Pass
View from Zojila Pass. Photo: Wikimedia Commons contributor (Public domain)

Top things to see and do

Thajiwas Glacier

The highlight of any Sonamarg visit. From the main road, a trail of about 3 to 4 kilometres leads across meadows and through a forest of pine and birch to the glacier’s snout, where snow and ice often remain into summer. Walk, ride a pony, or in early summer, take a sledge on the snowfields. Ponies are hired from the local association at fixed rates.

Sindh River

The Sindh is one of Kashmir’s best rivers for white-water rafting, with exciting rapids on stretches near Sonamarg and Kullan. Rafting usually runs from May to August depending on water levels. Licensed operators provide life jackets, helmets and guides.

Zero Point and Zojila

Beyond Sonamarg, the road climbs to Zojila Pass (about 3,500 m), the gateway to Ladakh. Zero Point, a snowfield beyond the pass, is a popular excursion in summer. Visits are by local taxi and depend on the road being open, typically from late spring to autumn. Carry ID; there are checkpoints on this road.

Baltal

About 15 kilometres from Sonamarg, Baltal is a base camp for the Amarnath Yatra’s shorter route. It is busy during the Yatra in July and August.

Nilagrad River

A small river near Sonamarg whose reddish water is believed locally to have healing properties. Visits are usually combined with Zero Point trips.

Trekking

Sonamarg is the starting point of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek and other high-altitude routes. Even without a multi-day trek, short walks across the meadows and up the valley sides are rewarding.

Trout fishing

The cold streams around Sonamarg hold trout. Fishing requires a permit from the fisheries department, and the season is regulated.

When to visit

MonthsWhat to expect
May to JuneSnow on the meadows and around Thajiwas, sledging, cool days
July to AugustGreen meadows, wildflowers, trekking and rafting season; Amarnath Yatra crowds
September to OctoberClear skies, autumn colours, quieter; cold nights
November to AprilHeavy snow; access depends on conditions and many hotels close
Wildflower meadow in Gulmarg in summer
Wildflower meadow in Gulmarg in summer. Photo: imad Clicks (Unsplash License)

Sonamarg in winter

Sonamarg receives very heavy snowfall. Access has improved since the Z-Morh tunnel opened, and winter tourism is slowly growing, but roads can close after storms and facilities are limited. If you want to see Sonamarg in snow, go only with a local operator who checks conditions daily, keep the plan flexible, and treat it as a day trip unless your hotel confirms it is open and heated.

Where to stay

  • Hotels along the main road: range from basic to comfortable, with views of the meadows and peaks.
  • Government tourist huts: simple and well located.
  • Camps: in summer, riverside camps offer tents with beds and attached washrooms. A memorable option on clear nights.

Most hotels operate from May to October. In July and August, book early because of the Amarnath Yatra.

Meadows and mountains of Pahalgam
Meadows and mountains of Pahalgam. Photo: Alyx X (Unsplash License)

Day trip or overnight?

Most visitors see Sonamarg as a day trip from Srinagar, which is enough for Thajiwas Glacier and a walk by the river. Staying overnight lets you enjoy the valley after the day visitors leave, see the peaks at sunset and sunrise, and visit Zero Point without a rush. Trekkers and rafters should plan at least one night.

Sample day trip from Srinagar

  1. 7:30 am: leave Srinagar after an early breakfast.
  2. 10:30 am: arrive in Sonamarg; walk or ride a pony to Thajiwas Glacier.
  3. 1:30 pm: lunch at a restaurant by the meadow.
  4. 2:30 pm: riverside walk or rafting (in season).
  5. 4:00 pm: drive back to Srinagar, arriving around 7 pm.

Practical tips

  • Carry warm layers even in summer; weather changes fast at this altitude.
  • Wear waterproof shoes for the glacier walk.
  • Bring cash for ponies, sledges and local taxis; ATMs are scarce.
  • Carry ID for checkpoints on the road beyond Sonamarg.
  • Follow local rules on taxis and ponies, and agree rates in advance.
  • Leave no litter; the meadows and river are fragile.

Overnight in Sonamarg: is it worth it?

Most people visit Sonamarg as a day trip, and that’s fine. But if you can, stay one night. Around 4 pm, the buses and cars head back to Srinagar and the meadow empties. The light softens, the peaks glow pink, and you can hear the Sindh River clearly. In the morning, you’ll have Thajiwas almost to yourself. For couples and photographers especially, that quiet makes all the difference.

A summer night in a riverside camp is a real treat. Good camps have proper beds, warm quilts and attached bathrooms, and some light a bonfire in the evening. Nights are cold even in July, so pack a warm layer.

Getting around in Sonamarg

Like Pahalgam, Sonamarg has local rules for transport. Your own cab drops you in town. For Zero Point and some other excursions, you’ll hire a local taxi at fixed rates. For Thajiwas Glacier, you can walk, take a pony, or in early summer use a sledge on the snowfields. Agree prices in advance and keep the rate card handy.

Sonamarg on the road to Ladakh

If you are driving from Srinagar to Leh, Sonamarg is the perfect first stop. Spending a night here at about 2,800 metres helps your body adjust before crossing Zojila Pass the next day. It also lets you enjoy Sonamarg properly instead of rushing through. Our Kashmir to Ladakh Road Trip and Complete Kashmir & Ladakh packages both include a night in Sonamarg for this reason.

What to pack for Sonamarg

  • A warm jacket, even in summer; the weather changes quickly.
  • Waterproof shoes or boots for the glacier walk and snowfields.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen; the sun is strong on snow.
  • A rain jacket for afternoon showers.
  • Cash for ponies, taxis and small cafés.
  • ID for checkpoints on the road towards Zojila.

Sonamarg with children and older travellers

Sonamarg is great for families: children love the ponies and snow, and the meadows are wide and open. Keep children well away from the river, which is cold and fast. For older travellers, a pony ride to the glacier is easier than walking, and the cafés near the meadow are good places to rest. At this altitude, take things slowly and drink plenty of water.

Sonamarg through the seasons

  • May to June: snowfields on the meadows, sledging near Thajiwas and rushing snowmelt in the Sindh. Wildflowers start to appear.
  • July to August: green meadows, wildflowers, trekking and rafting; busy with Amarnath Yatra pilgrims passing through to Baltal.
  • September to October: clear skies, golden grass and fewer visitors. Nights are cold, and the first snow can arrive in October.
  • November to April: heavy snow. Access depends on conditions; many facilities close.

A simple Sonamarg overnight plan

  1. Day 1, morning: leave Srinagar early and drive along the Sindh.
  2. Late morning: check in and walk or ride to Thajiwas Glacier.
  3. Afternoon: rafting on the Sindh in season, or a relaxed riverside walk.
  4. Evening: watch the peaks turn pink at sunset; dinner at your hotel or camp.
  5. Day 2, morning: early walk across the empty meadow, then Zero Point (if open) or return to Srinagar.

Gateway to adventure

Sonamarg is the starting point for some of Kashmir’s greatest adventures: the Kashmir Great Lakes trek, the road over Zojila to Ladakh, and high meadows where shepherds spend the summer. Even if you’re not planning a big trek, a short walk up the side valleys gives a taste of the wild landscapes that lie beyond. With a local guide, you can explore trails that most day visitors never see.

Frequently asked questions

Is Sonamarg worth visiting?

Yes, especially from May to October. Its glaciers, river and meadows make it one of the most dramatic places in Kashmir.

Can I see snow in Sonamarg in summer?

Often, yes. Snow usually lingers around Thajiwas Glacier until June or July, and at higher points throughout summer.

How far is Zero Point from Sonamarg?

It lies beyond Zojila Pass, roughly an hour or more by road depending on conditions. Visits are by local taxi when the road is open.

Is Sonamarg open in winter?

Access has improved with the Z-Morh tunnel, but heavy snow can still close roads and most hotels shut. Check conditions before planning a winter visit.

Is Sonamarg good for families?

Yes. The meadows, pony rides and gentle walks suit families. Keep children warm and away from the fast-flowing river.

How long does the Thajiwas Glacier walk take?

About an hour each way at an easy pace, plus time at the glacier. By pony it’s a little quicker.

Are there ATMs in Sonamarg?

There may be one, but it isn’t always reliable. Carry enough cash from Srinagar.

Can I combine Sonamarg and Gulmarg in one day?

Not comfortably. They’re in opposite directions from Srinagar. Plan them on separate days.

Visit Sonamarg with us

Sonamarg features in our Kashmir Highlights with Sonamarg, Srinagar & Sonamarg Meadows, Grand Kashmir Valley Tour and Kashmir to Ladakh Road Trip packages, and our Great Lakes treks start here. Tell us your dates and we will check road conditions and plan the best way to include it.

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